Hollywood has become a pale ghost of the glistening, glamorous oasis it once was. The majority of the legendary locales that put the place on the map have been demolished, transformed into shrines to L. Ron Hubbard, or converted into bong retailers and fashion-victim-filled night clubs. Where the famously opulent Hollywood Hotel once stood, the Hollywood & Highland Center has taken its place, peddling unethically manufactured clothing and deep-fried foods to tourists. Schwab's is now a Starbucks. And so on, and so on. If you want to surround yourself with the old school charm that defined Hollywood during its glory days, you're gonna have to schlep east. You're gonna have to go to—suspend your disbelief—Koreatown. LA's old landmarks and classic haunts still exist there, in spite of it all.